Fashion in 2023 is taking on a decidedly theatrical and clownish vibe. Christopher John Rogers introduced a stunning ivory white clown suit in his pre-fall 2023 collection, complete with silk flowers for added dramatic flair. The clown theme continued to be a popular choice during the spring 2023 couture shows in Paris, with designers like Dior creating a fancy clown collar inspired by Josephine Baker's wardrobe, Armani Privé offering sparkling harlequin prints and patterns, and Chanel incorporating decorative top hats and bows. Even Marni's fall 2023 show in Japan hinted at the classic clown character's voluminous and absurd shapes and silhouettes.
Pierrot, the classic pantomime stock character, is one of the most fashionable clowns of all time and has been a source of inspiration for designers ranging from John Galliano to Vivienne Westwood. For Rogers, who has been inspired by stock characters like Pierrot, the clown suit in his recent collection represented a wide range of emotions. He added fabric flowers down the center front of the suit, which he previously featured in his Collection 009 in multi-hued pink silk georgette, for added texture and visual interest.
Clown motifs in fashion have a long history dating back to the Fifth Dynasty of Egypt in 2400 BC. The character's uniform has served as style inspiration for centuries, and some of the most memorable moments in fashion include Westwood experimenting with harlequin prints in 1989, and David Bowie and Freddie Mercury donning clown-inspired outfits.
Today, cool brands like Bode and TYT continue to reinterpret the iconic clown suit costume with rainbow-colored tights and skirts featuring quirky faces that are both funny and scary. Designer Sasha Marie Bell even incorporated a physical object, a Jack in the Box passed down through generations, into the process of creating clown-inspired pieces for her brand, adding a personal touch and deeper connection to the past. The clown trend in fashion shows no sign of slowing down, and it has become even more bizarre and captivating with each passing year.
Bell was quick to capitalize on the increased interest in clowns in 2020, offering bodycon tights and skirts featuring enigmatic allusions to the character. She describes the movement as a way to have fun and stand out from the crowd, which is what makes it so enjoyable. If you choose to wear any of their clown-inspired pieces, expect curious looks but also be ready to embrace your inner circus performer and have a playful time.
TikTok has undoubtedly played a role in the popularity of the clowncore look. In the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic, many maximalist fashion enthusiasts on the platform fully embraced the aesthetic of the clown.
Kelley Heyer, who gained popularity for her clowncore fashion, shared that her work as an actor came to a halt during the height of the pandemic, leaving her without a creative outlet. She turned to social media and found happiness in showcasing her wardrobe and style online, fully embracing the performance aspect of fashion. Heyer found inspiration in some glittery party hats she found online, and she styled outfits around them, dubbing it “clowncore.” The term and style gained popularity over the next few months.
But why has the clown become such a prominent muse in fashion in 2023? Perhaps it is a reaction to the other side of rigid minimalism that we have been seeing lately. The pandemic led to a rebirth of pure expressionist maximalist style, which was reflected on the runways of certain labels. However, with that comes the opposite end of the spectrum.
People are now looking for practical, wearable pieces that still have personality while allowing them to blend in more. This is evident in the excitement surrounding Phoebe Philo's return to design, and labels such as Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu, and Valentino stepping up their neutrals and everyday appeal. The clown, on the other hand, is a bold and visceral reaction of total expression and humor in the face of all things basic. It's a little strange, a lot of fun, and guaranteed to turn heads.
Heyer believes that the popularity of clowncore is all about full-blown creative expression and even a little shock value. “There's nothing subtle about clowns,” she says. “I think people are done with hiding. We've spent so long in isolation these past few years that it has given us time to think about who we are.
Putting together these almost ridiculous outfits is a way of saying, ‘look at me, this is who I am.' The world is scary right now, and I see the rise of clowncore as our desire to be silly, opulent, and witty as things grow darker around us. We need to find joy somewhere, and I think putting on these clothes, this clown costume, gives us permission to be a character and express our own joy.”
The recent surge in clown-inspired fashion has even caught the attention of celebrities, such as Harry Styles, who sported a low-cut, glittering jumpsuit adorned with rainbow harlequin checks at the 2023 Grammy Awards in February. Some fashion stylists speculate that the impending recession may be driving the trend, with people seeking a sense of lightheartedness in the midst of economic hardship.
According to fashion stylist Shea Daspin, the rise of clowns in fashion may be due to the current economic downturn, as people are searching for a sense of levity and nostalgia in the form of joyful childhood memories like the circus or clowns. As we emerge from the pandemic, these playful and lighthearted elements are gaining popularity and helping to alleviate the dreariness and challenges of the past few years.
In any case, unlike many high-fashion trends, the clown aesthetic is quite accessible. If you're looking to embrace the clown aesthetic in your fashion choices without spending a lot of money, fashion stylist Shea Daspin has some tips for you. According to her, all you need is an oversized detachable collar and one clothing item featuring polka dots, checks, or a harlequin pattern, preferably in a larger size to really make a statement. With these elements, you can easily add a touch of clown-inspired style to your wardrobe without breaking the bank.
These Pierrot-inspired outfits in our closets represent a sort of absurd maximalism that we've been building up to. Why not mock fashion when everyday life feels a little scary, or even worse, mundane?
