Whether individuals seek solace or desire to assert their authority, bold shoulder designs are gaining traction for the spring of 2024, contributing to the ongoing trend of empowerment in men's fashion.
In a departure from convention at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Rei Kawakubo introduced a radical approach by affixing shoulder pads to the upper portion of jackets, rather than integrating them within the lining. Kawakubo's innovative experiment managed to uphold the jacket's attractive proportions and opulent fabrics, while highlighting that suits continue to exude a remarkable appeal.
Walter Van Beirendonck also embraced inventive tactics with padding, incorporating it into blousons and flight jackets that appeared as though an airship had gracefully settled atop them. Similarly, ERL's Eli Russell Linnetz utilized padding to simulate robust shoulder muscles beneath silver lurex tops.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, on the other hand, drew inspiration from Joseph Beuys' captivating sculptural forms, translating them into resilient-shouldered cotton poplin outerwear that harmoniously accompanied pinch-waist trousers or shorts. Socha observed that the outcome represented a strikingly novel development that is sure to shape the trajectory of man's fashion in the days ahead.
Rick Owens and Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello also embraced the pronounced V-line silhouette with fervor. Owens presented peculiar smokestack-like protrusions on shoulders, expanding to proportions akin to a linebacker's build. In contrast, Vaccarello presented magnified Le Smoking jackets that mirrored the contemporary magnificence of Berlin's Neue Nationalgalerie, where the presentation was hosted.
Meanwhile, designers such as Sean Suen, Hed Mayner, and Valentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli explored rectangular forms, basing their boxy, drop-shoulder designs on equally broad trousers – another standout trend of the season. Conversely, Alexander McQueen and 3.Paradis delved into curvilinear motifs, shaping shoulders reminiscent of elephant ears.
At JordanLuca, the overall silhouette prominently featured what designers Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto aptly dubbed the “bulldog” shoulder. Milan correspondent Sandra Saliban noted that this aesthetic lent trench coats and blazers an impression of mass and forward momentum, metaphorically communicating men's unwavering determination to persevere.
